I don't want people to think that they're buying things they don't need. I want more people to try it and be immediatly happy. I work pretty closely with the Evans company, but definately have some disagreements on the sales approach. There are some on this site that likely would use you as you are a source and then they would do the rest. There are some DIY types on this site that wouldn't need the extra help, but they likely would not use you to get Evans because of the retail markup. I realize that their might not be a low pressure cap for every bike - any way to modify existing caps? How much would custom caps cost (see and sheet rubber dealers on eBay)? Could you come up with a economical overflow system or is just putting less Evans in acceptable - AND can you specify the amount on a model specific basis. I do not know how deep you want to get into this but if you were to offer the total package, including a low pressure cap, overflow kit, and full instructions for use (bike specific) you would get much more interest - especially after reviews by known people. Glad to see you are willing to make recommendations that are cost saving measures, even if they are at the expense of Evans sales. Not only did it get me home, I could have ridden a lot more because the leak was very slow.Īny questions, email me at I jammed a piece of wood in the hole, taped/wired it up, and cut my cap to go to zero pressure. One day while riding my YZ250 in the woods with friends, I managed to puncture the radiator with a rock that leapt out in front of me. I generally don't do this on my bikes because I seem to lay them down on their sides at inopportune moments. I did this on my Tahoe to relieve stress on hoses, seals, etc. This is done by drilling the rivet out of the center of the underside of the rad cap. What you can do is go to a zero pressure system. There does need to be room for expansion and contraction. The fellow who suggested sealing the system needs to go back and reread. Water based systems do this because the sudden drop in pressure lowers the boiling point, causing a lot of vapor all of a sudden -BOOM! Even with the pressure created by a 14 pound rad cap, it won't blow hot coolant out. You can check this by removing the radiator cap when it's hot. I let the coolant level be what it is and don't top it up because it'll be at the top of the radiator when it's hot. You should add an overflow bottle (just a catch can will do, no need to get fancy). ĭO NOT "seal" the system! Evans Coolant expands about 7% when heated. I know the guys at Evans well, so can go to them if you stump me. I've used it for years and so can answer any of your questions. It's in all my (liquid cooled)bikes and cars. "Yeah, he raced once but has enough stories for a lifetime!"Įvans Coolant really does work. I could go on, but I'm not here to bore you, even someone with 50 miles under their belt has plenty of stories. I rode a Honda Ascot single from Tacoma to CT and then to Daytona and back to CT. I've ridden a dual sport (Suzuki DS175) in Nepal, a Chang Jiang with sidecar in China, DR650 in Australia (Honeymoon! Yes, she rode her own.) and raced in the Chinese National MX in Shenzhen (finished in 9th). I don't have a GS (my mom does!) but have done what I consider to be adventure touring. While I'd love to sell everyone here coolant, I'm really here because I like the site and the "lifestyle". I get product (at a discount) to sell to help support my vice. Much more can be learned at "We hope that unknown products of utter genius will be plucked from obscurity and revealed to Advriders here, that noble technicians and mechanics who solve our problems or go the extra mile to get us back on the road will receive well-earned recognition, and, conversely, that the bastards who cheat us, screw up our bikes out of gross negligence and otherwise make our rides more dangerous or frustrating will be exposed and driven to more suitable professions, like shoveling coal in the furnaces of hell." I believe the above quote (the first part) applies to this coolant. Low octane fuel can be used because detonation is controlled through the control of hot spots. Overheating is eliminated due to its 370F boiling point. It's Non-Corrosive and so never goes bad and will never need to be changed again after the first installation. As the title says, this coolant doesn't contain water.
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